TANGY Silk Technology - Squeeze
TANGY Silk Technology - Boil the satin
TANGY Silk Technology - Sprinkle the dioscorea cirrhosa juice
TANGY Silk Technology - Seal the dioscorea
TANGY Silk Technology - Dry the satin
TANGY Silk Technology - Guowu
TANGY Silk Technology - Wash the satin
TANGY Silk Technology - Absorb the fog
TANGY Silk Technology - Tangy Silk
About Gambiered Guangdong Silk
In the ancient times, Lingnan belonged to the State ofYue. It had been a long history for People in Yue to dye their fabrics and feather with the juice of dioscorea cirrhos.Dream Pool Essays, a science book written by the scientist Shen Kuo in Northern Song Dynasty, recorded the following:Materia Medicahas not explicitly described Zhekui (also named dioscorea cirrhosa). Now, in the south, there are quite many Zhekuis. They have the juice as red as ochre. The Southerners use the juice to dye their boots.
At present, Gambiered Guangdong Silk is the unique ecology-friendly fabric with pure handicraft in the world. It takesGuangdongnative silkworm silk as its semi-finished satin. It is made by daubing the juice (contains gels and tannic acid) of the dioscorea cirrhosa roots on the surface of the scoured satin, and with a layer of yellowish brown gummy material covers the fabric. Then the fabric is daubed with the sludge containing iron oxide. Being dried in the sun and washed in the non-polluted river for several times, the gummy material becomes black, and Gambiered Guangdong Silk is finally made. The clothes made of Gambiered Guangdong Silk rustle when people wearing them moving about. Thus, it is called "rustling light gauze". Later, people took its homophony and named it "Gambiered Guangdong Gauze". It has many merits such as: cool and soft to the touch, durable in the sun and water, easy to wash and dry, long-lasting and so on. It is a fabric used to make summer costumes in South China andSouth Asiacountries. Gambiered Guangdong Silk can only be produced in a few counties inGuangdong. As a traditional silk, it has a long history.
With ancient handicraft, Gambiered Guangdong Silk is ecology-friendly.
1. Prepare the satin: cut the satin into pieces of 16 meters long, for the convenience of the workers to operate it alone and by hand.
2. Immerse the satin into the dioscorea cirrhosa juice: put the ground dioscorea cirrhosa into a bamboo basket. And then put the prepared grey silk into the flume and immerse it into the thickest new dioscorea cirrhosa juice. Keep on turning the silk over and over by hand, to make the silk absorb the juice evenly. As for its concentration ratio, there are only one or two experienced workers knowing how to adjust it in the sunning plant of Gambiered Guangdong Silk. According to the day's rate of progress and the quantity of the silk being immersed, they adjust the concentration ratio at proper times. This adjustment all depends on their years of working experience.
3. Dry the satin: put the immersed satin on the “crawling rats” grassland. Unfold it to dry in the sun, and press it with bamboos.
Drying the satin is the most crucial work procedure. It is greatly restricted by sunshine and the temperature. Therefore, it can only be operated from March to November of the year. But from May to the first ten days of August (in the Slight Heat, the Great Heat and The Beginning of Autumn of lunar calendar), it cannot be operated because of the strong sunlight and high temperature which makes the satin hard and fragile. And after November, it can neither be operated because of the dry seasonal wind moving southward.
4. Sprinkle the satin with dioscorea cirrhosa juice: when the satin is dry, sprinkle it with dioscorea cirrhosa juice of the barrel. Repeat it for several times, to make the new satin be immersed evenly. The sprinkling workers are a little bit like acrobats performing a sort ofZhamabu(to stand firmly). They also sweep the satin with gama leaf broom.
5. Seal the satin in the dioscorea cirrhosa juice: put the satin into a special sealing flume, immerse it repeatedly, and put it on the drying yard to dry it in the strong sunshine.
6. Boil the satin: put the sealed satin into the big copper pot (not an iron pot) to boil, and turn it over and over by hand, to make it evenly boiled. Dewater the satin, dry it in the sun to improve its tint degree.
7. Seal the satin in the dioscorea cirrhosa juice, repeatedly.
8. Boil the satin in the dioscorea cirrhosa juice.
9. Once again, seal the satin in the dioscorea cirrhosa juice. When the satin is dry, roll it into cylinder-shaped. Then, this satin is semifinished product.
10. Daub the satin with sludge. (usually called “Guowu”): being the crucial step, this work procedure must be operated before dawn. At 4 or5 o’clockin the morning, workers lay the satin on the grassland with the front side open upwards. Daub evenly the sludge onto the satin and let it stay on the satin for some time, to make sure that there is sufficient contact between the iron objects of the sludge and the tannide of the dioscorea cirrhosa, and then chemical reaction takes place.
11.Washthe satin: wash the daubed satin into the river surge. Dry it in the dim sunlight. Then, the satin becomes shining black. Make sludge back to the river.
12. Seal the satin in the dioscorea cirrhosa juice: seal the satin in the dioscorea cirrhosa juice for the last time. Unfold it on the grassland to dry it in the sun.
13. Absorb the fog: after being repeated insolated, the satin is hard to the touch though it has absorbed enough dioscorea cirrhosa juice. In order to soften the satin, there is a work procedure called absorbing the fog: when it is dark, unfold the satin on the “crawling rats” grassland. At that time, it is sunset, the roots of the grasses have absorbed the water of the soil and make their bodies moist. Thus, the satin can the water from the grasses and becomes soft.
14. Roll the satin, mark the size, pack the product for storage. It is the best to keep it in storage for 3 to 6 months, and then wash it and make clothes.